Thomas Shelby, the magnetic and enigmatic protagonist of the acclaimed TV series Peaky Blinders, brought to life by the exceptional Irish actor Cillian Murphy, has become an iconic character not just for his ruthless cunning and calculated leadership but also for his impeccable sense of style. Set in the post-World War I era, the show is as much a visual feast as it is a gripping narrative, and Thomas Shelby’s costumes are integral to creating the allure of this complex character.

The Historical Context of Thomas Shelby’s Costume

The Peaky Blinders series is set in Birmingham, England, during the 1920s—a period characterized by social upheaval, economic recovery, and the emergence of distinct fashion trends. The men’s fashion of the time reflected a blend of practicality, formality, and evolving modernity. Thomas Shelby’s wardrobe is a masterclass in this historical sartorial style, enhanced by nuances that reflect his personality, ambitions, and emotional depth.

As the head of the Shelby family and the leader of the Peaky Blinders gang, Thomas Shelby’s costumes convey power, authority, and sophistication while remaining rooted in the working-class ethos of his upbringing. Each piece of clothing, from his tailored suits to his signature flat cap, carries symbolic weight and underscores his multifaceted persona.

The Signature Components of Thomas Shelby’s Style

1. The Three-Piece Suit

Thomas Shelby’s three-piece suit is a cornerstone of his wardrobe. Typically crafted in heavy tweed or wool, these suits exude a sense of formality and durability, befitting the rugged environment of early 20th-century Birmingham. The suits are often in muted colors like grey, charcoal, or black, reflecting the grim industrial setting of the story and Tommy’s stoic demeanor.

The fit of the suits is impeccable, with high-waisted trousers, double-breasted waistcoats, and narrow lapels that enhance Cillian Murphy’s lean frame. This tailored aesthetic not only highlights Tommy’s sophistication but also contrasts sharply with the rough-and-tumble world he navigates. The three-piece suit, a staple of men’s fashion during the era, reinforces Tommy’s role as a man of ambition and control.

2. The Overcoat

The heavy overcoat is another iconic element of Tommy Shelby’s look. Often draped over his shoulders like a cape, the overcoat is both practical for the chilly English weather and a statement of dominance. These overcoats, typically in dark tones, lend an air of gravitas to Tommy’s presence, making him appear larger-than-life in pivotal scenes.

The coats often feature wide lapels, deep pockets, and a tailored fit, ensuring they are both functional and stylish. The fabric choices, usually thick wool or cashmere blends, underscore the luxurious yet understated nature of Tommy’s attire, hinting at his wealth without overt flamboyance.

3. The Flat Cap

The flat cap, famously lined with razor blades in the show’s lore, is an unmistakable symbol of the Peaky Blinders gang. While the practicality of the flat cap aligns with working-class fashion of the period, its weaponization adds a sinister edge, turning it into a tool of both identity and intimidation.

Tommy’s flat cap, often in herringbone or tweed patterns, ties his character to his roots. Unlike his suits and coats, which signal upward mobility, the flat cap is a nod to his humble beginnings and the gang’s street-smart ethos.

4. Shirts and Collars

Tommy’s shirts are typically white or light-colored, with detachable collars that were popular in the 1920s. The detachable collar allowed for greater practicality, as it could be replaced or cleaned separately. These shirts, paired with narrow ties or bow ties, enhance the formal, polished look Tommy exudes.

The grandad collar shirt, occasionally worn by Tommy, is a more relaxed option that aligns with his working-class origins. This versatility in shirt choices reflects the duality of Tommy’s character—a man straddling the line between gangster and gentleman.

5. Accessories

Accessories play a subtle yet significant role in completing Tommy’s look. Pocket watches, a staple of men’s fashion in the era, are frequently visible, often attached to his waistcoat by a chain. This not only adds a touch of authenticity to his wardrobe but also symbolizes his meticulous nature and constant awareness of time—a crucial factor in his calculated schemes.

Other accessories, such as leather gloves, polished oxford shoes, and cufflinks, further enhance the refinement of his attire. These small details amplify the meticulousness with which Tommy constructs his public persona.

The Psychology Behind Thomas Shelby’s Costume Choices

Thomas Shelby’s clothing is not merely a reflection of the era but also a projection of his complex psyche. His wardrobe tells a story of ambition, survival, and transformation:

• Power and Authority: The tailored suits and heavy overcoats establish Tommy as a figure of authority. His sharp, clean lines suggest precision and control, traits that define his leadership style. The formality of his attire often contrasts with the chaos of his surroundings, reinforcing his dominance in any room.
• Rooted in Heritage: The use of traditional fabrics like tweed and wool and accessories like the flat cap tie Tommy to his working-class roots. Despite his ascent to wealth and influence, these choices reflect his loyalty to his family and origins.
• Masking Vulnerability: Tommy’s costumes often serve as armor, shielding his emotional vulnerabilities. The rigid structure of his suits, the high collars, and the dark, somber tones create an aura of invincibility that conceals the trauma and grief lurking beneath.

Cillian Murphy’s Contribution to Thomas Shelby’s Style

Cillian Murphy’s portrayal of Thomas Shelby is as much about physicality and presence as it is about dialogue. Murphy’s lean frame and sharp features are accentuated by the tailored cuts of Tommy’s costumes, creating an effortlessly striking silhouette. His brooding expressions, often paired with the downward tilt of his flat cap, add to the enigmatic appeal of the character.

Murphy’s ability to carry these costumes with such conviction is a testament to his dedication as an actor. He reportedly worked closely with the show’s costume designer, Stephanie Collie, to ensure that every detail of Tommy’s attire complemented his character arc.

The Cultural Impact of Thomas Shelby’s Style

Thomas Shelby’s fashion has transcended the screen, inspiring a resurgence of 1920s-inspired menswear in modern fashion. The popularity of the show has led to a renewed interest in flat caps, tweed suits, and vintage tailoring, with many contemporary brands creating collections inspired by Peaky Blinders.

The character’s style has also influenced wedding trends, with grooms opting for three-piece suits, pocket watches, and flat caps to emulate Tommy’s dapper yet rugged look. The global fascination with Peaky Blinders has ensured that Thomas Shelby’s costume legacy endures beyond the confines of the series.

Conclusion

Thomas Shelby’s costumes in Peaky Blinders are a masterclass in character-driven wardrobe design. Each piece of clothing, from the tailored suits to the flat caps, is carefully chosen to reflect the historical period, the character’s inner world, and his role as a leader and survivor. Cillian Murphy’s embodiment of the character elevates these costumes, making them an integral part of Tommy’s identity and the show’s enduring appeal.

In blending historical authenticity with psychological depth, Thomas Shelby’s wardrobe not only captivates audiences but also sets a new benchmark for how costume design can shape and define a character. Whether as a ruthless gangster, a cunning businessman, or a tormented soul, Tommy Shelby’s style remains as iconic as his story.